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Video instructions and help with filling out and completing How Form 944 Pr Circular

Instructions and Help about How Form 944 Pr Circular

Hey there welcome to DIY projects with Pete today we're going to build a concrete lazy susan this is a fun and simple project and if you can build this you can also build a concrete coffee table or an end table if you find this video helpful please give it a thumbs up and subscribe to the channel alright let's go ahead and get started the first step is to build the mold for the concrete we'll start by making the circular base of the mold out of melamine and to get a perfect circle I like to drill a hole in a scrap piece of wood and then measure 10 inches which is the radius of the circle for the lazy susan and then drill another hole use a short screw to attach the compass we just made and then use a pencil on the outer hole to create the circle use a jigsaw to cut out the circle and then slowly rotate the board as you're cutting to make your way around the entire circle take your time for this process to ensure you stay on or near the line while cutting adjust the table saw to cut the sidewall strip for the mold since we want a one-inch thick concrete lazy susan we'll cut the strip to 1 and 3/4 inches wide the extra three quarters of an inch compensates for the base of the mold which will attach the strip to wrap the side strip around the circular base of the mold and then attach it pre-drill and attach the strip using a screw about every 6 inches make sure the side strip sits flush with the base of the mold trim the end of the side strip so it butts up against the start there might be a small gap where they connect and you can use some clear packing tape to cover the gap the next step is to cut a circle out of diamond mesh to use as reinforcement for the concrete since this is such a small table it's not 100% necessary to use reinforcement but I wanted to show you the process in case you decide to make a larger mold to build a concrete coffee table or patio table I cut the mesh slightly smaller than the base of the mold to a diameter of 18 inches so there's about an inch gap between the mesh and the side strip clean the mold with rubbing alcohol and then seal the edges with 100% silicone caulk remove excess silicone with a tool to create a rounded edge make sure there is not any excess silicone in the mole next step is optional but it's one way you can personalize concrete I used a vinyl plotter to cut a decal out of vinyl and then stuck it to the bottom of the mold I layered a few decals together so the decal was about 1/16 of an inch thick and reflected the design since we are using the reverse cast pouring technique you could have a local sign maker create the stencils for you or you could create handmade designs with a razor knife and stencil material alright the mold is all complete so now we get to move on to the fun part of pouring the concrete the decal is in and we're ready to rock pour the concrete mix into a five-gallon bucket and then add water according to the instructions on the bag I like to aim for about a peanut butter consistency in the concrete and I like to use the quikrete countertop mix because it's easy to work with and has small aggregate the smaller aggregate is better for thin projects like this and it's also a lot easier to get a nice finish with then pour some concrete into the mold if you are using reinforcements I'd recommend filling the molds slightly more than halfway before setting the mesh into place work it into the edges and vibrate the concrete to minimize air pockets add the reinforcement and then fill the rest of the mold use a straight board to screed off excess concrete using a back-and-forth sawing motion fill low spots and you can use a trowel to help smooth out the surface then vibrate the concrete again now this is an important step that is going to help ensure the top doesn't have many air pockets in the surface vibrate the concrete by shaking the work surface or by using an orbital sander rubber mallet or reciprocating saw along the sides and underneath the mold double check to make sure the work surface is level so the concrete cures with an even thickness and then let the concrete sit for about 24 to 48 hours before removing it from the mold start de molding the concrete by removing the screws from the side strip the strip will pull right off then use some 220 grit or higher sandpaper to round over the under sides of the concrete flip the mold and remove the base piece on bigger concrete projects the mold typically pops right off but sometimes it's a bit stubborn on smaller projects you can use a hammer and chisel if this half and just make sure you don't touch the concrete with the chisel or apply pressure between the two the mold will pop off and you can see the concrete top for the first time it should be smooth with very few bug holes I like to do a quick sanding of the underside and then use a high grit sandpaper along the top edges you can either wet sand or dry sand if you do have a few pinholes or bug holes you can then fill them with a slurry mixture of cement and water let the slurry dry and then remove the excess with a scotch pad I'd recommend letting the concrete continue to cure a while.

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